Mar 6 2013

Cobea

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My French friend Remy loves Cobea and suggested we go there for lunch. Cobea is located on the left side of the Siene in the Montparnasse district (14th district of Paris) and is located in a restored old 1920s house, and the house has large windows from which you can see a green space and many plants including cobeas. Cobea is named after a beautiful purple flower (in English Cathedral Bell flower) because apparently Cobea flower has a “drive for quality”, and this is a “hearty, exotic flower that evokes the smells and flavours they wish to convey”.  The cobea also represents a universal spirit as it grows in many latitudes. Also restaurant’s name includes the first two letters of the partner’s names, with the final “a” to indicate “associate”. Philippe Bélissent and Jérôme Cobou the 2 owners of Cobea share a common love of haute cuisine.  The main chef is Philipe Bélissent and the wines are selected by his partner Jerome Cobou and Philippe Bélissent’s cuisine is described as both current and classic. Cobea won its first Michelin star in 2012

For lunch you can either have a set menu of 2 courses (€44 without cheese, €50 with cheese), a set menu of 3 courses (€60 or 66 depending on whether you have cheese) or their tasting menu of 4, 6 or 8 courses (for €70, €85 and €105 respectively) and all of these will include a hors d’oeuvres, amuse bouche as well as a desert at the end. The nice thing is that mineral water is complimentary, you can chose either still or sparkling and just enjoy it as much as you want! This is a thing that scores extra points with me as I think this is just so cool and I have not seen it elsewhere. When we were first seated they gave us hors d’oeuvres which was absolutely superb, one of the most memorable hors d’oeuvres that I have had which had pieces of lovely thick, not fattening and expensive bacon and salted deep fried fish made into long strips. An amouse bouche followed which was good but the thing that I really enjoyed was the bread. It was warm and delicious with a nice thick crust and the butter melted when applied to it. For our first course we could either chose the “white asparagus, yellow wine and mushrooms” or “scallops with corn salad, citrus and brown butter” and Remy and I chose the asparagus and our third lunch friend Semyon chose the scallops. The asparagus dish was amazing, the creativity that went into it to make such a lovely taste is impressive. The asparagus were soft and delicious and you could feel the wine and they went well with the mushrooms and in general it was just a beautiful asparagus dish. The scallops dish looked equally impressive with the scallops floating in a green sauce. For our main course we had a choice of either “Monk Fish with sweet potato, orange and coconut” or “Poultry “Arnaud Tauzin” with gnocchi with truffle and cebette”, and Remy chose the Monk fish and Semyon and I the poultry. We were very intrigued why the poultry was called “Arnaud Tauzin” and the waiter explained that it was just the name of the farm where it came from. I have slightly mixed feelings about the poultry, but I thought the gnocci were great, and I had recently eaten not so good gnocchi in Danesfield House in UK, and these gnocchi in Cobea really stood out by being soft and delicious. The poultry had an interesting flavour and I thought they had actually done a lot to make this chicken taste interesting, but one of my pieces had a tiny bit of blood on it, and I was a bit scared to eat the whole thing, as I thought I may get some disease from uncooked chicken. But maybe this is the way French like to eat it and they are a bit more bold in this sense than I am. Remy’s monkfish also looked wonderful.

A lovely touch was that the desert was included in the fixed price of €44, and they did not just bring you one thing, they brought you 3 different things. An individual desert of a poached pear with caramel crème and cute silver decorations. The pear was excellent, so tasty and the rest of the things on the plate were brilliant. I have had poached pear in other top class restaurants and here it was just miles better than anywhere else, superb. The other deserts we got were small cookies with a soft crème like centre that tasted a but citrusy and also half of a passion fruit. The whole combination of all these small and delicious items, so different from one another was brilliant.

I eat French food in London in top class restaurants and I seldom love it, but every time I go to France and eat French food there I am always over the moon! I think Cobea is much better than an equivalent 1 Michelin star French restaurants in London. The execution is great (apart from the slightly bloody chicken, but if they were meant to serve it like that, execution was good here too) and the taste is superb. French food can sometimes be a bit bland and I always say that I go to a lot of top class restaurants and don’t understand how they can serve such boring food, but Cobea is not like that and a wonderful example of delicious French cooking.

Date: 06/03/13
Price for 3 people for lunch with 2 glasses of wine: around EUR200 (I did not pay the bill so I don’t know the exact amount but I am estimating)
Location: Paris

Maija rated: 

4.50

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Cobea
11 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014
Paris
France
FR
Cobea Reviewed by Hungry Bee Maija on . Rating: 4.5