Aug 15 2014

Fera

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Fera is the new restaurant in Claridges (where Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant used to be before it shut down). It is owned by Simon Rogan who is sometimes there but spends most of his time in his flagship restaurant L’Enclume which has 2 Michelin starts and is located in Cumbria, Fera means ‘wild’ in Latin and Simon and his team try to “create dishes that reflect a deep connection to the elements” and Simon apparently brings quite a few elements from his farm to Fera. The interior at Fera is beautiful – it is much nicer than the interior that used to be at Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant. British designer, Guy Oliver, created it, and the restaurant features beautiful flowers and a nice tree in the middle, it is very beautiful.

Three dishes from the a la carte menu cost £85 and 12 dishes from the tasting menu cost £105. The restaurant is not cheap but it definitely looks like it is better value for money to go for the tasting menu, which we did. They had an extensive wine list and quite a short cocktail list. I went for one of their extremely creative cocktails that used elements from the kitchen and it was not nice at all. It had pea shoots and was not a very pleasant thing to drink. They do say however they can make any of the usual/ popular cocktails as well.

The first 4 dishes in the tasting menu were very small courses and they came one after the other. This is something Noma invented, they re-defined the amuse bouche. First we were given “stewed rabbit with lovage”, the lovage was a green sauce and you would pick up the little soft rabbit with a crust and put it in the lovage sauce and eat it. I was really surprised how nice and soft the rabbit was. The next small course was called “black bread, dill curd, frozen trout” and the trout was cold and truly frozen on a black sort of a cracker, interesting course, liked it. “Tunworth, potato and duck hearts” came next and tunworth is a type of cheese and in this cheese sauce you could find potato and duck hearts, this course had a very powerful flavour. I would not eat a duck heart on its own, but I did like it with this sauce. The next and the last smaller dish was “crab, rhubarb, verbena and port fat” and my boyfriend really liked it and it was a course of crab topped with other ingredients. At this point we were also given amazing dark bread with very soft butter, this was very good.

We then moved on to slightly larger courses and there were 5 savoury larger courses. We started with “Aynsome soup, mustard cream, soft herbs and flowers” and Aynsome is the name of the place where Simon Rogan’s farm is located. The soup was bright green, absolutely amazing colour, although I did not think it was that memorable or interesting to eat. “Cornish lobster, pickled golden beetroot, dittander and sea herbs” followed and I should have liked this a lot more than I did, the lobster was good and so were the beetroots but the taste was not that amazing. The next dish divided opinions, it was “grilled salad, grilled over embers, Isle of Mull, truffle custard, sunflower seeds” and you were given a large wooden fork that you would never use in another location and a small wooden board and were asked to mix the salad yourself and eat it. I loved this touch of nature, the salad was served in what looked like a bowl made out of a tree and I thought it was a lot of fun, my boyfriend liked it less so and thought it was not a very tasty dish. “Hake in caramelised cabbage, potatoes in chicken fat with nasturtium” followed and we all loved the potatoes in chicken fat. My friend Josh even asked if he could get more. The hake had been wrapped in cabbage and was also quite nice but the best was definitely the chicken fat and potatoes. I thought the nasturtium sauce was a bit too powerful. Our last main course was “dry-aged middle white pork, black pudding, young spinach, carrots” which I liked a lot. The carrots were quite hard and crunchy and the boys would have preferred them more cooked but I liked them like this. I also thought the pork was amazing, tender soft and very very delicious. I liked the black pudding less, it was made into a sauce and for me was too powerful.

We then moved on to the desserts and there were three desserts in total. The first one was “pineapple weed with butterscotch and celery”, probably one of the least memorable dishes of the evening. I liked more the next dish, “Hereford strawberries with meadowsweet and linseeds” we were given a half of a round pink dessert that we could break and it, it was very good. I also liked the next dessert, “black saison, cherries and fennel” and the cherries had a very intense taste.

I had a good meal at Fera but it is not one of my top 10 dishes in London and also probably one of the least memorable high-end tasting menus I have had. All the food was good but there was no standout dish like I have had in Noma, the Fat Duck or Alinea. The thing that I liked was how quick our meal was and in 2.5 hours we have had all the food, which is unusual as usually it does take a long time to have a long tasting menu. The service was quite good although once they did forget to explain the dish that we were given.   We paid a huge £194/ person and did have nice alcohol but I think that is a lot of money. Having said this, I still give it 4.5Ms as it was a very good meal.

Date: 08/ 08/ 14
Location: Mayfair
Price for 4 people with alcohol and service charge: £776.81

Fera At Claridge's on Urbanspoon

Maija rated: 

4.50

Location: 

Fera
Claridges Hotel, 49 Brook Street W1K 4HR
London
United Kingdom
GB
Fera Reviewed by Hungry Bee Maija on . Rating: 4.5