Jun 25 2013

Tantris

Tantris is supposed to be the best restaurant in Munich, and because I was visiting my mum who lives in Munich, I wanted to go there when I was there. Tantris has 2 Michelin stars and has been voted the 10th best restaurant in Germany as well as the 85th best restaurant in the world by the St Pellegrino Restaurant Awards. Tantris is an old restaurant and opened in 1971, and shortly afterwards was awarded first one, and then two Michelin stars, and at that time no other restaurant in Germany had more than 2 Michelin stars. Tantris as you can imagine has had many chefs over the years, but at the moment the main chef is Hans Haas who has also been voted the top chef in Germany.

I had booked a table the week before for Tuesday at 19.30, and to book a table you need to give your credit card details (which more and more restaurants these days do). It was easy to book a table the week before for a Tuesday evening but if you want to go there on a Saturday or Friday nights (Tantris is closed Sunday and Monday) you need to book at least a month in advance.

Tantris is not located in the immediate centre of Munich, but the building is very impressive. It was built by Fritz Eichbauer and designed by Justus Dahinden and has concrete sculptures of strange Chinese like animals/ dragons outside of it built by Bruno Weber, and now the building is a National Monument. The inside of the restaurant is equally impressive. The inside is red with black with shades of yellow and orange, and there are many impressive sculptures, lamps and flowers to look at if. There are many rooms in Tantris so it feels quite spacious, and the main dining room is divided into three different areas that feel different because of their various elevation from the ground, some bits are higher than others. There is also a private dining room and a lounge so you can go to Tantris for various occasions.

The menu features a la carte dishes, which are quite expensive and on average a starter costs EUR40 and a main course EUR80. They also offer a 5 course and an 8 course tasting menus for EUR150 and EUR175, respectively, with wine pairings if you chose to have them. As this was the first time at Tantris for both my mum and myself, we decided to have the 8 course tasting menu (also because for extra EUR25 you could have 3 courses, the difference between the 5 course and the 8 course tasting menus). Before we ordered our meal, the waiter also suggested some alcoholic (for me) and non-alcoholic (for my mum) cocktails and both were extremely tasty. Also the bread that the waiter brought us was decent, it was warm, but the butter was very cold so it was hard to put it on the bread. My mum and I also very much loved the amuse bouche which was a crispy tempura caper (super delicious, and did not have the strong caper taste, it just melted in your mouth, impressive cooking) on a thinly cut meat carpaccio which was very good, excellent amuse bouche.

The 8 course tasting menu was set, but the only thing that you could chose to have was the first course and you could chose from 2 different options, either to have the “Gelled veal terrine with glazed carrots and goose liver parfait” or the “Red mullet with fennel salad, green almonds and guacamole” and as we wanted to try both, we ordered both and then shared. It was a wonderful start to the meal. I first tried the veal terrine which was served with a toasted brioche and it was very pretty, made from different layers and colourful and tasty. The goose liver parfait as well as the vegetables it was served with were excellent as well, and my mum loved this dish. We also both liked the red mullet, and I was personally very very impressed how well the fish was holding together as well as how tasty it was and how well they have kept the red/pink colour of it, and it went very well with the fennel and guacamole. The next dish was “Roasted lobster with artichoke puree and artichoke-curry crème” and usually I hate these type of foam based sauces but here I actually enjoyed it. The lobster was great and meaty and tasty and the artichokes (both in pureed and solid form) were very tasty, and overall once again everything just worked together nicely on the plate. There are so many restaurants that try to add various things together on the plate and then it does not work, that it is great to find restaurants, like Tantris, where everything they put on the plate works well together.

At this point we also ordered some matching white wine. The menu recommends which wine to have with which course and I ordered a wine to go with the lobster and my mum the wine to go with the next course, turbot. Both wines were poured by an American sommalier who showed us the two bottles where the wines came from, 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos des Papes, Paul Avril, Rhone Frankreich and 2006 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon from Domaine Leflave, Burgund, Frankreich, and he also explained that Tantris is lucky they can offer these sort of wines by the glass and most restaurants could not. Both of them were excellent and I was drinking the 2011 Chateauneuf wine and it felt like drinking water, it was so light and tasty.

The next course, and the last fish course, was “Confit turbot with spinach, pea pods and sepia gnocchi”. Once again they had done a great job with the turbot, it was holding together well and was tasty and meaty like turbot well cooked can be, and I loved the buttery sauce it was served with and the gnocci.

The fifth course was our first meat course, “Oxtain essence”, even though there was not that much meat in it, and this was probably my least favourite course. It was oxtail broth with thinly, cut into squares, vegetables and served with a dumpling in the middle. It had a good taste, but not a memorable or very powerful taste and I guess it was a nice way how to get you into the meat courses, but as I said nothing too impressive. The next and the last meat course was “Medallion of venison saddle with fresh mushrooms and goat curd spatzle”. They brought you two plates, one with the venison and the mushrooms and cabbage and the other one with the spatzle, which is a Bavarian (and neighboring area) typical dish, which literally means “little sparrow” and is made of egg noodles and has a soft texture. I loved these spatzles, and loved dipping them in mushroom and cabbage broth where the venison was placed, as otherwise the broth was too overpowering but with these spetzle, it was just right. The venison was incredible. It was so so so impressively soft and easy to cut and just melt in your mouth type of meat it was incredible, also I loved how it was so evenly cooked all the way through, super delicious.

Next we moved to the in-between main course and desert course, the cheese dish, which was “Ricotta with mozzarella, smoked tomato and basil”, and together with the Oxtail essence dish this was my least favourite. It had ricotta on the bottom of the plate with squares of mozzarella, smoked tomato and basil on top and it did not have a particularly memorable or interesting taste, and I thought Tantris should do a bit more than just give you mozzarella with tomatoes.

Our seventh course, and the first desert course was “Caramel soufflé with Bavarian strawberries”, and I loved this. The soufflé was perfectly cooked, nice and fresh and soft and I loved the sweet large strawberries as well as the not so sweet forest strawberries (smaller than the normal ones) there which we also have in Latvia and which I don’t see that often. The last desert I liked but was not too excited about was “Cherry, chocolate, coconut ice cream” and had coconut and cherry ice creams with cherries in a syrup as well as a soft and spongy cherry cake covered in chocolate. Good and innovative and pretty take on the usual cherry and chocolate combo, but not sure I liked all the different flavours that much, but it could just be me as I am sometimes not the biggest fan of the cherry flavour. As we asked for the bill we also got some petit fours, and I tried two of them and they were nice and good, but I have seen more creative petit fours.

Tantris is a very solid and good restaurant. It does traditional haute cuisine very well. It won’t surprise you in terms of weird ingredients or too strange combinations of ingredients, it will just deliver a very high class and typical haute cuisine meal with all the things on the plate going very well together and showing an incredible cooking skill. I personally really loved the building and the décor and for me Tantris stood out because of these. Also if you can’t afford to eat in Tantris, don’t worry, there is also a Tantris shop where you can buy alcohol, books, tea, chocolate and various other things.

Date: 25/06/13
Location: Munich
Price for 2 people with food and 4 glasses of alcohol, no service charge: EUR437 (and I left £20 service charge as my mother was saying this is Germany and no one leaves more)

Maija rated: 

4.50

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Tantris
Johann-Fichte-Straße 7, 80805
Munich
Germany
DE
Tantris Reviewed by Hungry Bee Maija on . Rating: 4.5